Lessons of a YAGM year Revisited

I’ve tried and failed many times to write a final post about my YAGM year. The magic words that might tie up that experience and express the gratitude and humility I feel after a year of learning so much from so many different people. But here we are four months after my return to the U.S. and the words have yet to come. I think it’s because I struggle to think this year is over, and in many ways, the lessons of my year abroad are just beginning to unfold and take shape in my life here. I think the truest thing I could say in summary is that what I learned and experienced has no resolution. There is no end. The issues I experienced and witnessed in Mexico continue to happen there as well as on this side of the border, although they may show up looking a little different. Everything is connected. And right now I’m trying to figure out how I fit into all of this.

Last weekend, I got up in front of the community that has raised me, guided me and supported me in every stage of my life thus far, including my year in Mexico. I shared snippets and flashbacks in a reflection about my time abroad that were not easy to share regardless of the situation, and which became even more challenging to expand upon with the results of the elections fresh like a deep, oozing wound. If you’re interested in reading one of my final reflection pieces of writing about the country that altered my world view in the best way possible, please click here.

It’s hard to look the people who you’ve grown up with and tell them how that very community is doing great things, but also failing. I am equal parts proud and ashamed to be from where I am, because I can’t help but demand that we start coming to terms with the fact that white supremacy is hiding out among us. We have not done a good enough job of opening up and listening to what is happening around us. We don’t see bodies being lynched or families being separated by ICE, so we are exempt if it doesn’t happen in our community. ‘We’ve done our part.’ It doesn’t impact us directly so we don’t have to worry about these things.

When I say ‘we’ I’m talking to my white brothers and sisters.

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Community art from 9th and 10th graders at Peace Lutheran Church: “We have differences, and we can connect to each another.”

I don’t say this to point fingers and delegate blame, I say this mostly as a reflection of myself: How I have been so quick to write off so many people as I sit here with my liberal arts degree and a world full of experiences at my fingertips to draw from, leaving me with a different perspective, but also a much narrower willingness to listen to those around me in this stage of life: Those who I grew up with in high school who now hold vastly different political views than me. Their parents who voted for a man who puts nearly everyone in my ‘family’ of friends in immediate danger or threatens their well-being significantly. The man in the church pew listening to this very sermon who wanted to explain to me how globalization and policies like NAFTA has benefited the entire world. From his social location, maybe it really seems like it has?

These conversations to me are not appealing. They are headaches when I just begin to think about them, let alone begin to engage in them. But that makes them possibly more essential to have. (Keeping mental health and self care in mind, not every conversation is warranted, but there is something to be said about pushing ourselves outside our comfort zones and being in disagreement with one another, not always in debate.) When we have the privilege to do this without having the same potentially life-threatening ramifications as people of color, immigrants, refugees, members of the LGBTQA+ community, Muslims in our society, we must speak out and act.

When talking about this, I cannot help but think of the words of the Prayer of St. Francis of Assisi we read at worship last Wednesday:

O Divine Master, grant that I may not so much seek
To be consoled as to console,
To be understood as to understand,
To be loved as to love;
For it is in giving that we receive;
It is in pardoning that we are pardoned;
It is in dying to self that we are born to eternal life.

I vow to seek to understand before being understood. To love before being loved. To serve before being served. I still hold true to my convictions and what I believe in, and in that I will never waver. I’m still angry and grieving the results of this election. I will not validate hatred or bigotry, ever.

But I hope in this small shift that we can slowly begin to restore the bonds of humanity that have been so broken, and reconcile the image that God has created for us. And I need to say that we as white individuals are especially called to live out this passage. We are conflicted in who we are and what the roots of our identity signify. I spent a year accompanying the people of Mexico, listening to their life experiences and learning about their culture with an open mind and an open heart. In some ways this was difficult, but in so many ways it was easy to be the objective outsider with the privilege of reflection. But now I am back in the white suburbia that raised me and am faced with the largest test of accompaniment yet. We look at the rest of the world as poverty-stricken and broken, but all I can see in my own community are these very concepts in terms of our inability to hear one another and recognize our shared humanity. In many ways, I look at these next four years as an opportunity to attempt the same open-hearted intention to understand why the people here think the way they do. I hope to offer the same curious ear when they tell me about their experience in life and to turn my judgement to wonder.

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Street art in Clarion Alley, San Francisco. “Tell me my love, what have you seen today?”

The exciting and ‘flashy’ side of my YAGM year may be over in Mexico, but the work continues now more than ever right here in Wisconsin. I challenge us to stop running from the places we come from, from the people who challenge us and frustrate us, and from debating our way through every conversation. We’ve got to get to the root of this and actually confront what is going on before anything can really truly change in this country. If you’d like to talk, I’m here to listen.

Taxkaltsisaj

As we say in Spanish, I recently ‘completed’ my 22 year of life and began my 23rd. As we say in Nahuatl, I started ‘carrying’ the 23rd ‘leaf’ of my life. I love that because it makes me feel like a big, blooming, grounded tree. I can honestly say that for the first time in my life, I woke up and I actually felt older, and perhaps debatably wiser. I tend to reflect pretty deeply each year on my birthday, and this year was no different. I think this year I’ve changed quite a bit, just from experiencing everything that has come my way these past few months. Without putting any qualifiers on it, I’m just different. If anything, this year has taught me a lot about humility, friendship, what we value in life, what it means to be in community with others, and above all generosity.

I have to admit, my birthday (much like a lot of the other holidays I’ve spent here) was a little rough going at the start. Even 9 months into this experience, I’m still taken aback by, for lack of a better descriptor, unexpected expectations that show up at the most random times. Something as little as not seeing the birthday doughnut my parents always loving put out for me at breakfast, or even just being around the three people in the world who are obligated to care about the day I came into the world was enough to leave me feeling a little weird. But I set about my day as normal, and tried not to let homesickness envelop me. “I only have a few weeks left here,” I thought to myself. “It makes no sense why this is hitting me so hard!”

But little by little, throughout the day, new moments happened that made the day just as great. I saw my friend Fatima, and she gave me the biggest hug of the whole day. Even though she was working and was tending to 3 or 4 different tables at the time, she still took the time to leave the restaurant, greet me and talk with me. She wasn’t ignoring her customers, but she also gave me the greatest gift of her undivided attention that made me feel celebrated and loved. I admire her grace and unrestrained, joyous friendship no matter what time of day it may be. It is definitely one of the greatest gifts I’ve received all year.

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Fatima and I during my first visit to Ayotzinapan. Instant amigas 🙂

A few hours later, I was passing through the market to buy my weekly flowers and hunting for my favorite sunflower vendor, when (I’m not exaggerating here for dramatic effect, this actually happened) the rainclouds parted, and as my eyes followed the beaming sunlight, they fell upon Doña Tere and Don Antonio buying chicken. I hadn’t been able to greet Doña Tere on her birthday, two days before mine, and her huge smile was enough to bring tears of joy to my eyes. I hugged the both of them and Doña Tere whispered a sweet blessing in my ear that will always be precious to me. This couple’s care and ever-open arms have sheltered me in the roughest of storms and supported me like a third set of loving grandparents. They have given me many things, but their love and support is another gift I hold very dear in my heart.

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Doña Tere and Don Antonio after sharing a wonderful birthday meal together.

I went to work on Monday, ready to start the second to last week of my English class with very bittersweet enthusiasm, and went to put my things in the office. Sitting there on the desk was my favorite doughnut from the doughnut guy that visits Roberto and I from time to time. I looked through the office window, out into the library’s largest room, to see Roberto sitting in his usual spot at the table, waiting for me to find this sweet little treasure. When he saw I had found it, he quickly looked away and tried to go about his day as if nothing had happened, as if he hadn’t just magically known the one thing my birthday is incomplete without is a doughnut. What more can I say than this was not the first time Roberto has sensed just exactly what I needed and doing so without looking for anything in return. It’s not every job where your coworker also serves as your ‘partner in crime’, occasional teaching assistant, dad joke stand-up comedian, empanada taste-tester, nahuatl instructor and unruly child wrangler. He has taught me that it is never okay to snack alone, and it is through his gentle, humble ways I have learned the true definition of ‘accompaniment’. What a gift it has been to spend each day learning with such a kind and hilarious human.

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Roberto keeping order in a library full of rambunctious kiddos

As if my heart wasn’t full enough from all that had already happened, a few of my most regular attending students came to class that day with mischievous smiles and their hands behind their back. I braced myself for a myriad of possibilities, because if there’s anything I’ve learned this year, it’s that your students can surprise you in many different ways. A sweet, quiet girl named Leidy presented me with fresh roses she had cut from the bush outside her house and a homemade card. Other sweeties came with mangos and a handmade tortillero that says “Ayotzinapan” and more cards with messages in both English and Spanish. I think I’ve said it before, but I’ll say it again, being a teacher this year has taught me so much. I admire these girls for showing up every single day to a class that is optional. Rain or shine, the sound of their racing footsteps and giggles approaching the library signal that 2 o’clock has rolled around and it’s time to begin. I remember when I wasn’t going to give them homework one day and they all threatened to yell and scream until I did. Their passion for learning and dedication to learning things well is incredibly inspiring. They are the whole reason I’m here, and their silly, studious dispositions have made me realize a lot about myself. I cherish the moments I’ve spent with each of them and it is an incredible gift to see how quickly they have captured the English language, and built their own little community within this class.

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A few of my favorite students acting like monsters. Wait, how’d Roberto get there?

Now with a heart so full, it threatened to burst, I was about to leave for the weekend, when my friend Mika passed by the library with her two kids. We were talking for a while about all the happenings of Ayotzinapan, when she invited me to her home the next day. Excited to have some more time to spend with her and her family I readily accepted the invitation. The next day, I got to Mika’s house and her son, who we lovingly call Polloyón (the grand chicken), in his 4-year old excitement quickly exclaimed “HANNAH WE HAVE CAKE! COME LOOK AT THE REFRIGERATOR” ruining I’m sure whatever surprise they had been planning, and bringing the hugest smile to my face. With the cat out of the bag, Mika and I set to work grinding corn into masa and then rolling it out on the metate to start the tortilla process. Mika was the first person to teach me how to grind, roll, press, flip and cook tortillas to perfection. She’s taught me how to make a lot of other delicious recipes, and has invited me to join her in the entire process, from racing around to try and trap chickens, to harvesting banana leaves to wrap around delicious tamales. Each time I’m in her kitchen, once the fire under the comal starts burning, the conversation just starts flowing. Mika has such a huge heart, and has done so much to make me feel like a part of the community. After she surprised me with her famous mole and a delicious cake, I began to express all of my thanks. “Tasokamajtik, Mika.” Her response? “Taxkalsitsaj” It was nothing more than a tortilla. Her love for humanity and desire to foster community is something I look up to immensely. The doors of her home are always open and the moments we’ve shared in that kitchen with her lovely children are another gift from this year that I’m humbled to have received.

These are just a few of the people and moments that have taught me what the true gifts of this year of life have been. The people I have met have opened up their doors, arms, and world to me. There is something so incredibly humbling about having the honor to have received so much this year, without necessarily having the capacity to give anything back in return. I guess my one hope for this next year in my ‘tree’ of life is that I can take these gifts and bring them back into my life where it ends up next, and to do so with the same humility and grace I’ve witnessed here. My heart, mind, arms, and door are wide open!

“¿¿Ya me estás corriendo??”

22 days. How and when did 10 months become 22 days? I have avoided (to the best of my ability) counting down the days to my departure because countdowns instill nothing but restlessness and anxiety within me. But lately it seems as if every conversation I have revolves around the fact that one of the largest transitions of my life will take place in a matter of weeks. The harshest realization of this fact occurred when my students told me yesterday, “Hannah, debemos tener clase por 2 horas en vez de una porque solo nos quedan 2 semanas más contigo!” (We should have class for two hours instead of one because we only have two weeks left with you!) 

How do we only have two weeks left together?? I am struggling to believe this is real. I have watched these kids grow from timid and hesitant observers to boisterous balls of articulate energy. What used to be pronounced as ‘lovay’ is now ‘love’ and giggles ensue when things like “She has a beard” are said. These may seem like small things, but they are victories I am celebrating, and reasons why I am so incredibly proud of my students. Beyond pronunciation and comprehension, these kids have broken out of the perfectionistic tendencies that previously bound them from being their incredibly creative selves. When I thought about what my year of teaching would be like, I definitely wasn’t expecting to have to tell these kids, “You can do this, si se puede. I don’t care if you draw that line with a ruler, there just needs to be a line dividing your paper. If you make a mistake, cross it out and start over, don’t throw away the entire page. It’s the content that matters, not how pretty the paper looks.” I remember when games like Charades were met with a room full of terrified stares and people refusing to participate, which seems so long ago as I now have to calm down the room after everyone starts shouting about who’s going to act out the first word.

I have learned so much from these kids, and from the members of this community. I could write a book about it all and about what being a ‘teacher’ has taught me. (so cheesy, I know, but also so true!) But for now, as my mind races and tries to grasp onto the remaining, fleeting moments I have left here, I want to share with you all an exercise we did on our last YAGM retreat. Lindsay asked us to write down the things we see, smell, touch, hear and taste in our daily lives here. So to keep myself present and appreciate the little moments this year has offered me, I want to share these senses with all of you.

Sounds

  • Roosters crowing outside of my window. 11 pm. 2 am. 2:30 am. 4 am. 6 am. Is this thing broken?
  • The meep-meep of the motorcycle tortilla delivery man, signaling the end of another day
  • The school bell followed by the relief-filled cheers of children
  • Bob Marley, Beyonce & Rihanna blasting from Roberto’s speakers at the library
  • Niouj. Bueno.

Touch

  • Icy, frozen plastic bag surrounding a delicious paleta (popsicle)
  • The coarse, yet feathery-soft surface of recycled paper
  • The plush, sometimes sweaty bench on the camioneta
  • The hands of others, pulling me in for a warm greeting

Smell

  • Smoke and fire as wood burns at all hours
  • Chickens, pigs, turkeys and all their natural smells 😉
  • The warm, robust smell of a tomato roasting, wafting from my favorite kitchens

See

  • The expansive, lush, green valley below and beyond
  • Four walls. One roof. Signage that says “Biblioteca Comunitaria Se Sentanemililis” surrounding by colorful paintings and hodgepodge handprints

Taste

  • Doña Tere’s tortillas

 

These are the moments that will keep me present in these last few days, and the reason why leaving well and returning home is going to be the most bittersweet thing I have ever done. Feeling so much gratitude and so much heartache all at the same time. Now that words are failing me once again, I’ll leave you with a few pictures from these last few weeks. I hope you are well, wherever you are in the world.

Xik patanaltik mo tanemililis

Happy Sunday to all of you!

I have to be honest and say I have started and erased so many posts that try to reflect on our time at the border. I am currently experiencing the fact that finding the right words to say at this moment in time is incredibly challenging. I fear anger will dominate my tone or I’ll forget to add the facts and be moved by pure emotion alone. For that reason, I’ve decided to share other important happenings with you while I continue to process and search for the words that will portray just how prevalent this issue is, without the risk of failing to do it the justice it deserves. In the meantime, feel free to check out my latest newsletter, but I highly suggest you check out these posts by some of my eloquent YAGM compadres who have done a better job than I could ever hope to in explaining these extremely complex issues:

Gracia’s posts on Operation Streamline and the Tucson Sector Border Patrol

Josh’s post about Prevention Through Deterrence

Alyssa’s post about Sin at the border

Catherine’s prose about U.S.-Mexico relations

Ryana’s post about the vigil in Douglas, AZ

Sometimes when I’m overwhelmed by the engulfing presence of unjust systems, like that of immigration, I can momentarily forget how important on-the-ground, communal initiatives like the library really are. I get so wrapped up in the injustice and the ways it seeps into seemingly everything, that I really have to work to open up my eyes to the hopeful situations presenting themselves around me. We talked with quite a few people on the border, through whom I saw and heard the people from my community. I talked with farmers from Oaxaca who echoed the same things many of my friends from Ayotzinapan tell me: there is no money here, and the climate is so unpredictable making things even harder. But when I take a step back, and see what people like my boss Roberto are fostering here in Ayotzinapan, I see a team of people with a fierce love for their community. People who want to put down roots, and see what grows from it.

After that impactful time on the border and as my time in Ayotzinapan continues, I continue to witness the powerful ways in which the library is acting in the community. It provides an open space for students to do their homework and research without having to travel to nearby communities makes education easily accessible, and not just a privilege for those who have the time and resources to pay for the transportation there and back. Kids from different school groups, neighborhoods and families come to play and convivir together and youth and their parents come to workshops to learn new skills like weaving, print-making and photography. These workshops have even lead to the potential creation of a co-op of women who want to make macrame artesania in order to sell for a supplemental income while also preserving local traditions.

A really exciting initiative that I want to share with all of you are the pieces of art that emerged from our recent photography workshop. What do you get when you set 20 primary-aged kids loose with some cameras? A lot of craziness and some incredibly beautiful images of what they value in Ayotzinapan. I’ve been waiting to share images from the community until this point because I want you to see it through their eyes, not mine. So without any further adieu…I present to you the works of the Young Photographer’s Association of Ayotzinapan (I just made that up, but some of them really could be professional photographers if they wanted to).

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Arriba – Flor Itzel
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Burro – Uriel
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La iglesia – Leidy
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Niños – Yuri
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Trabajadora – Juan
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Flor – Uriel
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La camioneta – Juan
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Flores amarillas – Juan
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El burro – Pedro
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El gallo – Juan
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La escuela – Flor Itzel

 

It was such a joy watching how quickly these kids caught on, and how natural they are at expressing themselves through this medium. And yes, in case you were wondering, about a million selfies were taken that day, each one more adorable than the next. The phrase we coined that day was “Xik patanaltik mo tanemililis” which translates to “Let your imagination soar!” a pretty fitting mantra for a day full of creative expression, don’t you think?

I hope you are well, wherever you may be in the world.

 

Matters of the Heart

As we approach and pass the five month mark of my time in Central Mexico, I continue to be humbled by the joy I have experienced here. There are so many wonderful things happening deserving of celebration and recognition. For those of you who didn’t receive my latest newsletter, you can find it by clicking here. From the people, to the amazing organization I’m accompanying this year, and all of the beautiful sights to take in and experience, my heart sometimes feels so full that it threatens to burst on me.

All that being said, I’ve been very conscious about what I’ve shared with you all so far this year. There is so much happiness here, but like anywhere in the world, there also exists oppression and hardship. Being a witness means embracing and acknowledging everything that may be happening, no matter how difficult that may be. I don’t often like to dwell on negativity, but to omit it from this year’s story would be leaving part of my job unfinished. One of the most challenging parts of this year has been living and working in two places that are in many ways similar, but even more so different. I have witnessed some challenging realities, and haven’t until recently been able to find a way to put them in words. My position as an ‘outsider’ has lent me to spaces and conversations not everyone here has the opportunity to be a part of and has supplemented my experience with an understanding and reminder that sometimes our biggest obstacles are the people living around us.

Recently a friend was teaching me more Nahuatl and asked me the question “Toni kijtoua mo yolot?” Literally translated it means something along the lines of “What is your heart saying?” and is the common way to basically ask “What’s up” or “What are you thinking?” Perhaps words affect me more than the average person, but when my friend translated the meaning for me, I was once again left speechless by the beautifully profound capacity Nahuatl has for getting to the depth of things in a simple manner. What are you thinking about so deeply in this moment that you feel it in your heart?

My heart has been saying so many things lately that my brain just can’t put into eloquent, complete phrases. I sometimes see things and hear conversations that make me so frustrated I’m brought to the point of tears: A group of wealthy Mexican tourists in the town center of Cuetzalan are surrounded by the usual indigenous women selling artisanal crafts to make a living. They’re making racial comments, situated above these women in stature and ignoring their presence below. Then after almost half an hour of stringing them along, debating what to buy and how much, settling on the cheapest item and handing them the largest quantity bill amidst laughter as the women scurry away to find change, because **of course** they don’t have that amount of change with them. All this while sitting with my friends from the library, some of whom have grandparents who continue to sell artesania to this very day in that same town center. This is why I don’t want to be considered a tourist I say.

Privilege.

It’s so complicated, yet so SO important to unpack and understand. There isn’t a day here that goes by without it showing up somehow for me, or in the things I witness. I can’t shake who I am, nor should I. I could live here for years and years, become fluent in Nahuatl, and even dye my hair the beautiful black that is so common here, but I will always be a white female from the Global North. It’s not about erasing your identity, but rather acknowledging the complicated societal systems that have placed certain groups of people in elevated spheres over others.

I often find myself dwelling on the phrase “treat your neighbor as yourself”, a concept that becomes difficult when I’m constantly caught in this ‘middle ground’ between two pueblos (towns) held in a tension that dates back decades. Who are my neighbors here? What do I do when these two worlds come crashing together in sometimes extremely uncomfortable ways? How did I somehow make it near the ‘top’ of this totem pole some people like to use to classify humanity?

These moments are hard. I have so many questions like the ones above that I’m afraid this year might never answer. As a white female coming from the Global North, holding a U.S. passport and living abroad in Mexico, the discomfort only continued as our group dove deep into the issues of migration and displaced peoples this past week. For the first time in my life, I was given the opportunity to explore first hand the relationship between the country I usually call home, and our Southern neighbor, Mexico. What can I say more than this issue, which at its heart is a complex story of humans forced beyond their limits seeking refuge, has been twisted and bent into a giant legal and political monster of an issue.

The Wall

Something as simple as moving your foot from one patch of desert to another is now considered a felony. A wall that serves as a fear mechanism, constantly being redesigned and rebuilt no matter how many times natural forces like rivers and wind tear them down. Millions of dollars are invested in high tech gravel roads and state of the art surveillance systems not designed to keep people out, but to capture them and take them to court. Plea bargains are arraigned and upwards of 300 migrants can be processed daily in border courts under the newly designed Operation Streamline, destroying legal records, futures and benefiting private prison corporations. NAFTA seamlessly carving paths for subsidized U.S. corn of arguably lower quality to be imported and eliminating competition of rural Mexican farmers leaving them with few options to make a living.

How are we treating our neighbors?

Last week I was able to cross that imaginary line we call a border effortlessly by presenting my little blue booklet inscribed with the gold letters stating United States of America. I had time to reflect and touch the wall with the cartels watching us from the mountains behind us and Border Patrol agents fully aware of my presence on the other side. I was not afraid for my life or wellbeing. We shared meals with migrants who shared their stories and I was even gifted a beautifully painted seashell from a man named Horacio. We walked the halls of the Douglas, AZ border patrol station and listened to their perspectives, the laws that are in place, and their mode of operation. We watched as 44 men were shackled together, entered a courtroom and were mass processed into our prison system where they will serve time before immediately being deported. We declared the names of those who have fallen victims to the desert and the system, that they are always PRESENTE in this life. We talked with lawyers, activists, local government officials, faith movement leaders, and scholars on this issue. The breadth and intricate manner in which this issue has wrapped its tentacles around the lives of so many different individuals is alarming.

This doesn’t even touch on the half of what we witnessed last week or what thousands of people are experiencing daily on and around the border. This is not the last thing I write about the issue, but I am left astounded by how little we know about what is actually going on at the border. I am left wondering so many things, but to answer my friend’s question “Toni kijtoua mo yolot?”,

my heart says these are our neighbors.

This is not the love I want to show my neighbors, especially when this year I have been welcomed openly, offered a place to work, fed with delicious food, and treated like like an honored guest always. The difference between my path and theirs? Privilege.

All is calm, all is bright

What makes Christmas, Christmas? What is it about this time of year that fills me with a warm, fuzzy sense of joy and fulfillment? This is a question that I, myself, have been wondering. Like many others, this time of year has always signified a moment of respite for me; a time to relax away from the craziness of school or the ‘busy’-ness of life while surrounded by the wonder of family. But what happens when all of the familiar is stripped away and you are left with a date on the calendar and a load of expectations? Well folks, that makes for an incredibly challenging, humbling, and ultimately beautiful time.

I will never forget this year’s Christmas. Not only because of the warmth I felt being surrounded by the new family I have found here in Ayotzinapan, but because for the first time, Christmas was presented to me in the most raw, real and truthful way. As a YAGM group, we agreed to meet the weekend before Christmas to bake cookies and have our own convivio to celebrate the holiday. For a while, most of that familiar feeling was present. Despite the temperature being a little warmer, being surrounded by Christmas music in English and taste-testing the usual sugary favorites brought on the familiar sense of relaxation, peace and joy. We sang Silent Night and held our candles and all was calm and bright.

Ultimately that peaceful feeling was just what I needed, but the beginning of my newfound Christmas understanding didn’t begin until Lindsay, our country coordinator, shared an incredibly special message with us about her interpretation of the Christmas story. That story is painted in a very peaceful and serene light. But she raises the question, “Why was this story painted in this way? We can almost hear the cattle lowing and see the twinkling of the stars above.” But the context of the time when Jesus was born was anything but twinkling lights and humming peace. She described Jesus’ birth to us like the calm of the storm. Amidst war, migration, struggle, poverty and tyranny Jesus was born into the world and for a moment, we feel that calm. But the struggle does not disappear. It still surrounds that pocket of peace, and for a moment we can pause and see what is happening with new eyes.

Her message goes on to highlight that this year we may be experiencing storms of our own. Whether it’s witnessing the power struggle between indigenous communities and government municipalities for rights to land. Whether it’s watching a child having to choose between furthering their education or helping continue the agricultural practices that sustain their families and communities, and sometimes even communities beyond their own. Whether it’s a personal struggle to learn a new language and communicate, we are here, and we are not alone. We are merely witnesses to these things, accompanying those who have had their ‘rain gear’ on for years before us, weathering these storms with them.

As I was meditating on Christmas Eve, thinking about all the things that have happened so far, this incredible Christmas message, and the ways in which I’ve felt the shift and growing pains from the beautiful struggle this year, I was struck by lyrics from a song I’ve listened to time and time again, year after year at Christmas:

“The hopes and fears of all the years are met in thee tonight.”

All that is, and all that will be is made bearable, when that power and love God has for us was made human. Even if for a moment, all of the turmoil and tension I have been feeling were hushed when I realized that the incredible humans here who are passionately working for their cause are demonstrating exactly what this represents. Fighting for justice within your community is showing the most earthly love I can imagine. Christmas will never be the same for me because of this realization. And because of the people here who have shown me the greatest gifts of all without even knowing it, as well as that raw, real Christmas message that put everything into perspective.

There are a lot of things I have to be grateful for in 2015. In a quick summary, this was the year that kicked my butt in the best way possible and made me realize more about myself than ever before (which I know everyone says that, but seriously it did and do we ever stop learning really?). While I haven’t been in Mexico for the entirety of 2015, a great majority of this year has been spent in this new community, and I owe a lot of my personal growth to all of my experiences here. I hope that in 2016, these moments of peace and examples of divine love lead to strengthened communal relationships in order to fight for justice for all people. Might seem like a lofty order, but I think we owe it to ourselves.

Wishing you all the best as we finish another year and begin anew in 2016. I hope you are well no matter where you are in the world!

Con paz,

Hannah

 

Ximotalij–Take a Seat!

As November rolls in, I have been thinking a lot about this time of year often dubbed as “the holiday season”. People are almost giddy with anticipation of the glorious times we spend feasting, worshipping and bonding with family over Thanksgiving and Christmas. I know it’s been a little difficult for me to accept that this is the first Christmas I won’t be with my family in 22 years, so much so that I haven’t really allowed myself a lot of time to dwell on it. While I’m sure once that wonderful day in December is here I’ll have some real emotion to deal with, this past weekend celebrating Día de los Muertos has taught me a few things about interdependence, and calmed my heart in unexpected ways. But first things first:

Día de los Muertos 101

(This is by no means an in-depth description so please take time to look up more info if you are interested. Also, celebrations vary widely within Mexico itself. Check out Gracia or Josh’s blogs for perspectives from different cities in Central Mexico!)

For starters Día de los Muertos is an incredible tradition celebrated all over Mexico. While today it manifests itself in various forms depending on where you are celebrating, the tradition is believed to have started over 3,000 years ago as a way to celebrate death and honor ancestors and relatives who had passed on from their time on Earth into the afterlife. When the Spanish conquistadores arrived to this land, there were many attempts to eradicate the practice (as it was seen as a pagan ritual). However, thankfully the tradition survived this dark, ugly period in world history and continues to thrive in many parts of Mexico, and now parts of other countries as people and traditions are moving and mobilizing.

As is typical of many Latin American and Caribbean religions, during the Spanish conquest, religious synchronism, or the blending and coexisting of two religious practices, was a major theme that did not leave Mexico untouched. Día de los Muertos is now celebrated in conjunction with All Saints Day and All Souls Day, two historically Catholic holidays that indigenous populations were somewhat forced to celebrate in the 1500s in an attempt to instill Catholicism in their societies. Despite this conquest of religious practice, the celebration of Día de los Muertos today still utilizes symbols and rituals rooted deep in their ancestral history, like the presence of the cempoaxochitl (flor de muerto), traditional foods, and altars created to greet the spirits upon their return from the spirit world. This beautiful time is truly rooted in a celebration, instead of mourning, of death.

Men begin harvest of the cempoaxochitl (flower of death) always used to decorate altars and create paths from the street into homes to invite the dead to eat the meal that is awaiting them!
Men begin harvest of the cempoaxochitl (flower of death) always used to decorate altars and create paths from the street into homes to invite the dead to eat the meal that is awaiting them!
Local transport of a smaller harvest
Local transport of a smaller harvest
Just the start of the mountains of flowers that were sold at the markets for weeks leading up to Dia de los Muertos
Just the start of the mountains of flowers that were sold at the markets for weeks leading up to Dia de los Muertos
Fruit, cempoaxochitl, photos, candles, and food are placed on the altars in family homes to celebrate and welcome home the spirits of dead ancestors.
Fruit, cempoaxochitl, photos, candles, and food are placed on the altars in family homes to celebrate and welcome home the spirits of dead ancestors.
Petals of the cempoaxochitl are placed in a cross formation leading to the altar, so the spirits can find their way home.
Petals of the cempoaxochitl are placed in a cross formation leading to the altar, so the spirits can find their way home.

Ayotzinapan Celebrations

This year I am lucky enough to have two communities which have welcomed me in and cared for me in more ways than I have words. I could probably write a book about my experiences in Ayotzinapan over Día de los Muertos and Todos Santos, but one thing is certain: any fears about feeling lonely or forgotten during this “holiday season” were rapidly extinguished after spending time with various families in the community. The entire week leading up to Día de los Muertos was full of excitement, with many members of the community inviting me to learn how to make tamales, atole (a thick beverage made of milk products and cornmeal often flavored chocolate or vanilla), or to come share a meal with them over the holiday weekend. Excited by the prospect of cooking something for the first time in months and spending more time with new families, I eagerly accepted.

On Saturday, I went to the home of Mika and Martín to experience my first ever tamale crash course. Let me just say, tamales have been one of my favorite foods for a while, and now I understand why they’re so delicious: it takes A LOT of time to put so much love into those tasty morsels. Tamales are just one of the many items placed on the altares here as an offering to los muertos and basically the whole weekend is spent making anywhere from 4-7 different kinds of tamales. In Ayotzinapan, tamales are wrapped in hojas verdes instead of dried corn husks, which means there is a very specific, intricate way you must wrap the leaf. After unsuccessfully wrapping tamales in the leaves inside-out or sideways, which essentially resulted in a jumbled mess, I was feeling a little frustrated with myself. I was so humbled by Mika’s patience and grace that day, laughing with me and showing me over and over, and then AGAIN one more time, how to fold the leaf and end up with a 5-pointed star shape. Amidst the hectic bustle, in a time where I thought I would be helping Mika with her tamale work load, she took the extra time to teach me and stay with me until those leaves started cooperating. Eventually I got the hang of it, and as we were placing the tamales in the pot to be cooked, she graciously remarked “Look, you can’t even tell which ones are tamales estadounidenses and which ones are mexicanos. This is your house now. Come and sit whenever you would like.”

Mika showing me how to layer the masa and filling, roll it, and section it off to make small portions for the leaves.
Mika showing me how to layer the masa and filling, roll it, and section it off to make small portions for the leaves.
Tamale masa (dough) is rolled into balls before being shaped into flat discs and then wrapped in leaves.
Tamale masa (dough) is rolled into balls before being shaped into flat discs and then wrapped in leaves.
A layer of perfectly wrapped tamales going into the pot to be cooked. I wrapped some of those!
A layer of perfectly wrapped tamales going into the pot to be cooked. I wrapped some of those!
In Ayotzinapan, once wrapped in the leaves, tamales are placed in a giant pot to be cooked over the open flame for about 30 minutes.
In Ayotzinapan, once wrapped in the leaves, tamales are placed in a giant pot to be cooked over the open flame for about 30 minutes.
Tamales, cups of atole, pollo de pipian, and pan de muerto accompany the photos of deceased relatives on the altar.
Tamales, cups of atole, pollo de pipian, and pan de muerto accompany the photos of deceased relatives on the altar.

On Monday, I knew that Doña Tere (who I normally eat comida with every day) had family visiting. Since I had so many other invites I decided to stop by and just let her know that I would stop by the next day to eat and wish her happy times with her family on Todos Santos. Now, this is where I seriously underestimated my lack of cultural awareness. I should have known that what I thought would just be a quick stop, would turn into a full-blown experience. Doña Tere took me by the arm and I was swept into the house among exclamations of “Ximotalij, ximotalij” (take a seat! take a seat!). Despite my feeble attempts to avoid imposing myself in any family activity they had going on, I was again humbled and surprised by my time with Doña Tere and her family. Very quickly I learned the lesson that if you visit a home (especially on a day like Todos Santos) and you are invited to sit, it is considered rude not to accept a minimum of a cup of atole, pan de muerto, and AT LEAST two tamales. So I let go of any social anxieties the Midwest has instilled in me about ‘barging in’ on other family’s bonding time, and just went with it. It was so great meeting the people she has been telling me about for months now, and to feel the warmth and cariño this family shares with one another. I have never felt more grateful to feel so accepted and to hear Doña Tere say through a brimming, contagious smile and soul-warming hug “Es mi hija, es mi hija.” (She’s like a daughter to me.) In that moment, I knew that any anxieties about feeling lonely in the months ahead had no foundation. Of course I will miss my family, but I have been serendipitously placed with some wonderful humans here as well.

After relaxing and laughing with her kids and grandkids, I reluctantly had to wish them all farewell, and continue on my way. I would like to say again, I still believe tamales are delicious. I would also like to repeat the minimum you are expected to eat when invited to a home (atole, pan de muerto, and two tamales). I visited quite a few homes that day, and a few also offered me pollo de pipian, a typical dish that includes chicken with a special sauce over it. Needless to say, after a few days of chowing on tamales, and all the other delicious treats that come with this holiday, I was basically a walking, talking tamale. That bumpy camioneta ride home was not looking too appetizing after multiple invitations to feast, but luckily my friend Luis offered to make the trek home from Ayotzinapan to Cuetzalan with me and get some extra exercise.

One of my favorite views on my commute between the communities where I live and where I work.
One of my favorite views on my commute between the communities where I live and where I work.

The views of the mountains and the valley as the sun is setting is one of my favorite things I’ve seen so far. In these simple moments of reflecting and sharing with my new friend, I also realized how much I still have to learn here. One thing our conversation made very clear is how much I have fought any sort of dependence upon other people in my time here. Which is insane, because there is no way I would be able to be a part of this community if it weren’t for the grace, acceptance, and guidance of so many people I have met already. I guess coming from a society that often measures success of young adults on their ability to ‘make it’ on their own, I’ve had to reconnect with what it means to truly be comfortable with interdependence. The words of one of my fellow YAGMs, Mel, resonated so deeply within me when I first read them, because I think they accurately capture why even accepting something as simple as a cup of coffee can sometimes be challenging for me. She wrote, “How do you describe the humility you feel when you realize you have nothing to give, and everything to learn.” Día de los Muertos is a beautiful tradition here for so many reasons. Today I’m feeling humbled by the reminder that I’m here to learn and that I’m surrounded by people who are full of grace and love. God is present here and every day I feel Her love the more I learn to connect and share in this grace and love I’ve been so lucky enough to receive. Ashes to ashes. Dust to dust. I feel the walls within myself that have been building up over years, burning down, and in light of this particular holiday weekend, I find that change something to be celebrated.

"Faith brings the person to God, but love brings the person to people." -- Martin Luther
“Faith brings the person to God, but love brings the person to people.” — Martin Luther

Poco a poco

Niouj.

Bueno.

This is the quick way to greet and answer someone in Nahuatl that you are passing by on the street. It sounds like ‘new’ but with a few extra vowel inflections. It’s one of the first things I’ve learned here in Ayotzinapan, and it’s something that I’m still trying to master. Greetings are especially important here, and if someone doesn’t respond when you greet them or doesn’t greet you, it usually means something happened that didn’t jive well between the two of you. That or they just didn’t hear you. That’s why the past few days, after alternatively greeting people too quietly and practically yelling this word, I’m starting to slowly understand the timing, inflection and volume at which this seemingly simple greeting should be said.

I just started learning Nahuatl on Monday, and already I can tell what a difference it’s making in my everyday interactions with people. Poco a poco (little by little) people are starting to recognize me. Every day I hop on a camioneta, which is a pick up truck that has been modified to have benches and a convenient canopy cover for the immense amount of rain here, in order to get to work. When I started my commute last week, taxi drivers would try to corral me into their cars, thinking I was a tourist off to see the caves or one of the many other beautiful natural wonders in the area. But every day, I hop on the camioneta sometimes with 3 other people, sometimes with 15 other people, their live turkeys, small children, bundles of food and multiple 50 kilo bags of cement for construction projects. (This actually happened yesterday). At the beginning of the week, when we would all smash into the back of these trucks, people would sit down, but maintain their distance from me. I am obviously not from here. People were choosing to stand during the bumpy, curvy ride instead of sit down in the ample space next to me on the bench. I could make a lot of guesses as to why, but in that moment, despite my discomfort and insistent pleas that they take a seat, I had to acknowledge that I was still an outsider.

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My ride to work every day!
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Auxiliadora greeting me at the library! (Se sentanimililis)

I often put a lot of pressure on myself to do things quickly and to do them well. I try to please people and want everyone to be comfortable. So for me, these rides on the camioneta with the stark distance between the community I’m serving and me, were uncomfortable in the sense that I was taking up their space. At least, that’s how I felt. Something had to change, and for me that meant diving head first into a language that I honestly didn’t know existed before studying a little bit about it in college. So luckily for me, Roberto and the kids at the library have been fabulous teachers, and within a matter of days, I have the vocabulary and cultural context not only to greet people, but to introduce myself and to identify random animals and food objects. Much like any 3 year old who points to things and says “cloud” or “chicken”. One of my first days of ‘class’ was spent with a group of 4 and 5 year olds playing loteria (kind of like bingo) because we’re all about at the same level, with the exception of a few who are understandably much more proficient than me. But hey, you have to start somewhere. Poco a poco things are falling into place.

I remember the first time I correctly said ‘tiotaki‘ or good afternoon when boarding my camioneta home to Cuetzalan on Tuesday. Everyone on board snapped their heads up and their eyes met mine as if to say “Okay, we see you.” I even got a few smiles that time. You could say I was feeling a little accomplished as I was met with a chorus of ‘bueno’ while finding my seat. This time, no one stood up or scooted over as I sat down. It was such a simple moment, but it’s one of the greatest senses of accomplishment I’ve felt in a while. My heart was so full, just like the back of that camioneta.

Now that people are beginning to recognize me, I have people stop me on my way to lunch and ask how things are going, about the upcoming English classes I’ll be teaching, and how I’m doing. I’ve felt a great sense of welcome from everyone here, especially the mothers and grandmothers of the kids who come to the biblioteca. I love hearing about their families and getting to know them in these communal moments of pause along el camino (the way). I guess it makes sense in a way, that once you learn how to greet someone, you simultaneously are opening up the space to be, to share and to meet someone. For me, learning Nahuatl has already opened so many doors and it’s only been a week. I can’t wait to continue learning this incredible language because in many ways, the culture is entwined within each word.

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Part of my walk to lunch everyday.

Nerd moment: The most beautiful thing I have learned so far is that the word ‘xiuit’ means both años (years) and hojas (leaves) because when asking someone’s age, instead of asking the number of years you have (Cuantos años tienes?) you are asking ‘how many leaves do you carry in life’. Makes me think of giant trees that are full of life. This is just one example of how eloquent Nahuatl is and how important it is to understand cultural context.

So for now I’m just taking the next few weeks to remind myself that things take time. I’m not going to be fluent in Nahuatl over night, and struggling with this language has been really great actually! The kids love laughing when I say things wrong and it gives me a lot of joy to let them laugh and correct me. Even in these weeks of transition and finding my place here, I’m coming to the conclusion that I have a lot to learn about just being. Not running off the do something, to get to work or to even plan something, but just to be here. We’ll see how things go when I start incorporating English into the mix 🙂

I hope all is well with you wherever you may be in the world.
Hasta Mosta! (Hasta Mañana)

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Getting ready for classes to start next week!

The Beauty of Change

Hello loved ones!

Today marks exactly one month since I’ve left my little nest in Waunakee, and I honestly can’t believe how fast the time has flown! As many of you know, I spent a week in Chicago at orientation with the entire YAGM crew, and then was traveling around central México getting to know the people and places my comrades will be serving alongside this upcoming year. I was going to spend the time writing out every single site we visited so that you all would have a better idea of the diversity of our realities this year, but then my friend Gracia went and wrote a beautiful, humorous, and seriously accurate piece about the same thing. I know it may seem lengthy, but this woman has a way with words, so I strongly advise you to click HERE and read all about what we’ve been doing during orientation and the amazing individuals I’ve been growing with already! Here’s a picture of us by the Tepozteco pyramid for good measure:

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Driving past Popocatepetl, an active volcano, on the way to my site!

Just a few days ago I arrived in Cuetzalan, which is the town I will be living in the rest of the year! The first time when we visited with the group during orientation, I honestly couldn’t believe my eyes as we began winding up the side of a lush, green mountain. Around every curve were small farms, cows grazing on steep hillsides, tropical flowers, and dogs chasing chickens. The trees at the start of the climb reminded me of the forests in the Northwoods of Wisconsin where my grandparents live. Omar (one of our amazing country coordinators) had the windows of our 15-passenger van rolled down, we were jamming to Coldplay, and as the fresh, crisp air was hitting my face, my new reality began forming before my very eyes, although at that moment it felt much more like a dream. The pine trees slowly turned into wild vines riddled with vibrant flowers and sprawling trees with leaves almost as big as me that at times gave way to cornfields perched at acute angles on the steep hillside.

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El centro de Cuetzalan del Progreso, Puebla, México

I remember reaching the enchanting town by way of cobblestones and thinking to myself “HOW IS THIS MY LIFE RIGHT NOW?!” I’ve found that those moments only keep coming as I get to see more of this beautiful region of the country, but most of all as I get to meet more of the people who live here. My host family is a tight-knit unit who you’ll get to hear more about as the months go on, but my favorite thing so far (besides the amazing cooking) is the fact that they own a rancho or farm outside of the city where they harvest their own coffee, bananas, sugar cane, papaya, limas, oranges, and this fruit called espinozas which I have found taste kind of like corn, but less sweet and more like the consistency of a squash. Also it’s covered in sharp spikes, so don’t pick it up. Learned that one the hard way. I was lucky enough to get to visit el rancho my first full day here since it was a national holiday and no one had to work! As Carmen, my host abuela (grandma), showed me the view of the valley from the plantation’s rooftop, I once again stood silent in wonderment. “How is this my life right now?”

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Homegrown café!!

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Yesterday was my first official day at the biblioteca (library) and I woke up SO excited to go and hang out with the kids again. When we visited during orientation, we emerged from the van weary from traveling for hours but were quickly swept up in a group of giggling, gabbing niños who quickly displayed their incredible intelligence despite their young age. They lead us through the portreros to an open expanse of green pastures. As we walked and talked in a jumbled mixture of Nahuatl (the native language here) and Spanish, one by one the kids brought me wildflowers and explained what they were and if they had any meaning or if it was their favorite flower, why. My hands were soon bursting with different colors and smells and as cheesy as it sounds my heart was so full. In this moment, I watched the kids tumble down the grassy hills next to a beautiful flower covered pond and once again thought “Es mi vida, en serio?” Their joy is contagious and their quick wit and intelligence inspires me to be on my toes at all times.

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Fatima, one of the committee members of la biblioteca, and I exploring the pyramids during orientation

This year is going to be incredibly different than anything I’ve ever know, seen or done before. I find myself extremely humbled by the fact that I was placed here in this warm, welcoming community. I think my favorite thing is when I tell people I’m going to learn Nahuatl, they pause, look at me really seriously, then we usually share a good laugh and I say “Ojalá” which roughly translates to something like “God willing”. I can’t even tell you the number of times this has happened, but I haven’t given up hope yet! They also say it rains here 300 days out of the year, and so far I’ve ended every day relaxing to the sound of the falling (or in most cases rapidly plummeting) raindrops. I’ve always loved the rain and for now I can’t help but keep on thinking “How is this my life right now?”


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I hope you are well, no matter where you are in the world.

Besos y abrazos a todos!

¡Vamos a México!

QUERIDOS FAMILIARES Y AMIGOS,

(Dear Family and Friends)

As many of you know, I recently graduated from Gustavus Adolphus College with a double major in Latin American Studies and Spanish, feeling equal parts anxious and ecstatic about what lies ahead. Many of you have been asking myself or close family members the question any recent college graduate expects: “What is she off to do next in the world?” I am very excited to formally announce that I will be serving in central Mexico through the ELCA’s Young Adults in Global Mission (YAGM) program. My service year begins this upcoming August and will last until late next July. While I have not yet received my formal job placement, I know I will be paired with either a non-profit organization or other secular social service institution to do work such as sustainable agriculture, working with immigrants from Central America, English-based youth education, and women’s rights. I am especially excited for the opportunity to once again live with a host family, and to be deeply immersed in the rich culture and beautiful language of Latin America which I am so passionate about.

I am beyond excited to have this opportunity to gain a better understanding of what lies beyond the border separating the U.S. from its southern neighbor. If you would like to learn about more ways to support my work please check out my Support Me page. On a final note, this blog will serve as my primary form of communication in the months ahead, so feel free to subscribe to receive email updates throughout the year! Again, this is just an initial post informing everyone of my general plan, but I will be sharing some more thoughts and reflections as I continue preparing this summer for my fast-approaching departure.

Muchas Gracias por todo (Thanks for everything!) ¡Hasta pronto!